Blast City – leak found!

So I’ve spent some significant time on this – fortunately, I didn’t get zapped along the way!

After reading the thread on Aussie Arcade – https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/72785-sega-blast-city-abnormal-voltage-on-signal-ground-and-more/, I decided to take away my internal tx out of the picture just like the OP did. I simply tuned my 220v cab into a 100v cab and used my existing step down tx that my other blast is using – after probing, I had about 50-55V!

I probed the same areas on my other blast city and it too yielded 50-55v on the metal plate. I’ve been using that cab for almost a year and never felt a shock, so I’ve never really looked into it that much. Back to the troublesome blast…

Either way, I knew that I had a win already since I went from 172-180V down to 55V! I still didn’t have the balls to touch the metal plate yet until I got it a little lower..

Spent a good chunk of the weekend taking readings and special shout out to tiff_lee for pretty much helping with the troubleshooting

Took the following measurements – probe points are ground pin on the control panel and P1 start pin unless otherwise noted

  • 56 pin (CN10) unplugged in off state (front switch) – dropped to 3v
  • 56 pin (CN10) unplugged in on state (front switch) – went to 9v
  • CN1 unplugged – no difference
  • With CN1 and CN2 unplugged in off state (front switch) – still reading around 3.9v
  • With CN1 and CN2 unplugged in on state (front switch) – went to 5.9v
  • With CN1 and CN2 plugged in, probed ground and a pin in CN10 – read 60v
  • Measured the pins on CN1 connector – every single pin showed 62v
  • Measured the resistance of ground and the metal enclosure of the PSU – was at 0 ohms

So it was pretty clear that CN1 was the culprit, but wasn’t sure why. The next step to take was to remove the common denominator between the two cabs – the external tx!

I rigged up another tx I had and wired it up to the same place as the original tx

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Upon first power up, probing the same points as I previously have been, I’m seeing with a pretty low number! YES!!!!

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Did some more testing and probed the frame of the monitor which would essentially be the same as the metal plate since it gets mounted on it.. I get an 8v reading!

Looks like I can definitely close this issue off and thank f**k for that! I will try grounding the internal tx to see if it lowers the voltage even more but tiff_lee mentioned that he didn’t see a gain on his and his blast hovers in the 8-10v mark too.

The only thing left really for this blast is trying to source an original tube!

But for now, I will stick my tongue on that metal plate shock free! 😛 😛 😀

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